Well, this isn’t exactly the blog update I was hoping to provide but here it goes...
Once upon a time in, the far away land of Kenya, the Sondermann’s prepared for the biggest road trip of their lives. They bought camping gear, travel maps, tools, road safety gear, extra tires and oh yes of course...their overland safari vehicle - a Toyota Prado.
The good news is that every item on their shopping list, albeit one, was a ‘good buy’. The bad news is that the one item that wasn’t a ‘good buy’ just so happened to be the Toyota Prado.
Simply said, our overland vehicle was such a lemon it's a wonder that Shane and I didn't smell citrus a mile away.
Simply said, our overland vehicle was such a lemon it's a wonder that Shane and I didn't smell citrus a mile away.
Cutting to the Chase
Despite the mechanical inspection and all assurances that the Prado would make it to South Africa and back, after two weeks on the road in Kenya our engine blew up.
While almost every Kenyan that we encountered was friendly, honest and genuinly kind, we managed to get stitched up with a very successful businessman that had the moral and ethical integrity of a pop tart. It was plenty-strange given that most of his business comes from the United Nations and our friends that personally introduced us to him both work for the UN.
Despite the mechanical inspection and all assurances that the Prado would make it to South Africa and back, after two weeks on the road in Kenya our engine blew up.
While almost every Kenyan that we encountered was friendly, honest and genuinly kind, we managed to get stitched up with a very successful businessman that had the moral and ethical integrity of a pop tart. It was plenty-strange given that most of his business comes from the United Nations and our friends that personally introduced us to him both work for the UN.
After a somber tow-truck ride back to Nairobi, our friends issued some nasty threats and after a lengthly wait, some of the money for the vehicle was returned to us but sadly we had spent far too much time and depleted too much money from our budget to start over with the trip.
We could have used the remaining funds in our budget to fly to a few places in Africa but we knew that overlanding was the only way we wanted to see such an incredible place. And so we weighed out our options and consulted the lyrics of a legendary, plastic surgery-addicted country singer:
“You got to know when to hold 'em, know when to fold 'em,
know when to walk away and know when to run".
In this case we heeded Kenny’s advice, and ‘ran’ for South East Asia.
Our time in Kenya was full of highs and lows. While the vehicle gave us mind-numbing headaches, sleepless nights, and heart murmers, we also had really wonderful/incredible/inspiring experiences including self-safaris through three of Kenya’s National Parks. We also met and befriended some exceptional people and saw iconic landscapes. So all was certainly not lost. To give you a snapshot of our trip, I've captured the highs and lows.
Firstly though, I've included a special treat for all of you keen African animal lovers out there (yes, that's you!!). Thanks to National Geographic and The Lion King, we can identify many of the beasts that roam the wild landscapes of Africa. But what about 'the other end' of the animal - the less glamorous side of these magnificent spectacles? It's time to see how sharp your animal identification skills really are by enjoying some good, old fashion "Behind the Beast" photo trivia.
Admittedly, it was pretty fun taking these photos because we were genuinley excited when an animal dismissed us by offering its backside. Admittedly, this photo trivia may seem a tad odd, and may suggest it's time that Shane and I to return to civilization, but just 'role with it' and find the photo answer key at the end of this update.
And now for those highs & lows...
And now for those highs & lows...
Highs
- Spotting our first giraffe after landing at Kenyatta Airport in Nairobi at 1:30 in the morning.
- Getting to know Megan & Patrick and their son Jacques, who generously offered for us to stay at their place while we purchased the vehicle. Thank you to our magnificent friend Erin for putting us in touch with them.
- Finding two vehicles that appeared to be good options for our overland trip - both being sold by Expats that worked for the United Nations.
More Highs
- Tom Smith, the seemingly straight-shooter of a mechanic that Patrick and Megan introduced us to reports that for various reasons (poor engine, evidence of roll-over, major mechanical issues), both vehicles were not viable options for the trip. Though our spirits are deflated, they’re quickly restored when Tom recommends a ‘solid, reliable Toyota Prado’ with a ‘solid, reliable engine’. We have the vehicle inspected, get all assurances that it’s a good fit for our needs and take the plunge with our biggest purchase of our world tour.
Lows
- After investigating a slow leak in the back tire we discover that the ‘rubber has been ripped’ by not one, not two...but five nails. We have to replace both back tires (and tires run about $250 each). Our first red flag.
Highs
- After a very big shopping trip for all of our overland gear and groceries, we load up the vehicle and get ready for an early morning departure.
Lows
- The seal on the jerry can, breaks and as we pull out of the bumpy driveway the container spills diesel here and there. Coincidence, yes...but it just felt strangely like another red flag.
Highs
- We’ve given the vehicle a bath and we’re on our way to Mount Kenya. Shane has learned to drive on the left side of the road, sitting on the right side of the vehicle while shifting on the left side. Many people in Kenya drive like maniacs which is one of the reasons that the American Consular website refers to road safety as one of "Kenya’s greatest threats to travelers”.
For the record, Shane did a remarkable job of navigating around crater-sized pot holes, donkey-towed carts, wondering sheep, matatus (uber-dangerous minibuses) and bycicles that were often balancing 6 ft stacks of supplies.
Lows
- Two hours outside of Nairobi we hit our first long hill - our speed drops to 38 kms with Shane’s foot pressing the ‘pedal to the metal’. Red flag, red flag, red flag!!!!!
Highs
- Our first night camping near Mount Kenya under a massive sea of stars.
- We've arrived at Lake Bogoria National Park to find it nearly deserted of tourists. We have an incredible opportunity to observe, in solitude, hundreds of thousands of pink flamingos. While the clip below is recorded on our digital camera, it does capture the incredible spectacle.
Flamingos are skittish and often take flight at sudden movements or noises so while Shane was recording this clip I was waving my hands behind him which set off thousands of these birds into full flight.
Highs/Lows
Waking up in the middle of the night to the sound of a hippopatamus huffing outside of our tent. When agitated, these plus-sized animals won't hesitate to run over anything that weighs less than them. After an enlightened discussion about what to do when a hippopotamus is hanging outside your tent, we made a mad dash for the truck.
Lows
While heading back into Nairobi we experienced low engine power, overheating, a faulty 4-wheel drive system and an intense squealing noise when the speed drifted past 40 kms. We could barely see outside of the windshield there were so many red flags blocking our view.
Big Low
We confronted Tom (the mechanic) about the issues with the vehicle. He went right off the deep end - swearing, shouting, and suggesting that if he were to assault Shane, the police wouldn't do anything about it. His very kind accountant had to step in to cool him off. Yep, red flag.
High(ish)
With a very brief moment of regret for his Bill O'Reilly-style outburst, Tom agrees to address the issues with the vehicle at cost, which resulted in several days of work. He guarantees the vehicle will make it to South Africa and back, shakes Shane's hand and tells us to "have a great trip".
Lows
- Heading into the Rift Valley we notice low power and overheating. I try to rally our spirits by playing "Africa" by Toto on the stereo. Yes, so pathetic it brings a smile to your face.
- The roads into the Masai Mara have a reputation for being fresh hell to drive over. They were but, as we quickly discovered, our shocks were Pinto-quality and this made the experience even more harrowing. What the heck, throw in another red flag here.
Highs
- The Masai Mara: Kenya's world-famous game reserve that covers 1510 square kms of iconic landscapes. Being one of the few vehicles in the park that wasn't operated by a tour agency, we enjoyed the independence and privacy of a self-safari.
We saw fantastic wildlife including a leopard that casually walked 6 feet in front of our vehicle and the massive wildabeast migration where we saw hundreds of thousands of wildebeast making their annual march. You can pretty much add everything else to the mix including: lions, bufallos, zebras, elephants, crocodiles, worthogs and hippos. Awesome!!
We saw fantastic wildlife including a leopard that casually walked 6 feet in front of our vehicle and the massive wildabeast migration where we saw hundreds of thousands of wildebeast making their annual march. You can pretty much add everything else to the mix including: lions, bufallos, zebras, elephants, crocodiles, worthogs and hippos. Awesome!!
Lows (yes, there's more!!)
- While driving in the Masai Mara we get stuck in the mud, attempt to engage the newly repaired 4-wheel drive...you know where this is going don't you? Red flag.
- Having successfully freed ourselves of the mud with a two-wheel drive option, we continue on our way for several more hours until steam begins to emerge from the hood of our car. The overheated engine has just burned through the radiator. Red flag.
- Having successfully repaired our rad with the services of two bush mechanics, and with dusk setting in, we head out of the park. We arrive at our campsite, park the vehicle, get washed up and return to find the entire contents of the oil pan leaked out onto the ground. Red flag.
- Having spent an entire day with a bush mechanic completing a welding job to address the leaking oil we prepare to leave the next morning. Destination: Tom's shop in Nairobi.
Lows
Two hours outside of Nairobi our engine starts revving and despite removing the keys from the ignition, it continues to rev until the exhaust pipe creates a 12 inch hole in the gravel as it blows. I think we're beyond the red flags by now.
The Final Low
Need I say more...
The Square Peg and the Round Hole
We tried. We did everything we could to make the trip but in the end with a lemon of a vehicle, we just couldn't get the square peg to fit the round hole.
We had tremendously bad luck but we also know it could have been worse - much worse. A few weeks after the final incident I had a dream that I was pushing Shane in a wheel chair and our Toyota Prado was resting headfirst in the ditch of the driveway to my house where I grew up. Probably nothing right? But it was good reminder that we were fortunate not to have learned the dire consequences of driving a lemon in Africa.
Highs
Once we had put the ugly incident behind us we started making plans for an early arrival to South East Asia. At the same time we met a fantastic couple from Canada. Paul and Lyn Kohls are missionaries in Nairobi and they spent plenty of time with us, taking us to sites including the giraffe sanctuary where we had very close encounters with the residents.
For my 31st birthday Paul arranged for a community activist of the Kibera Slum to give us a tour. Kibera is the second largest urban slums in all of Africa where upwards of 1.5 million Africans reside. We were grateful for the unique experience and it put our circumstances into rather harsh perspective seeing blatant poverty, where open sewers, that from a distance could be mistaken for small rivers, run between shacks as far as the eye can see.
Movin' On
As we taxied down the runway - our destination Bangkok - we had very mixed emotions. Disappointment, relief, but mostly excitement and anticipation for our next adventures.
Our stay in Bangkok was brief as we made plans to spend a month and a half in Malaysia and Indonesia (we're in Malaysia now) before returning to Thailand. From there we'll set off for a six-week trip through Cambodia and Vietnam. At the end of November we'll fly to the Philippines where Shane will meet his extended family for the first time. In case you didn't know or you always wondered - Shane is half Philipino and half German. Shane's mom is originally from a family of 17 children so we'll have a 'few' names and faces to memorize.
As always we hope this (epically long) blog update finds you well.
Shane & Colleen
